Crimp-and-go butt splice connectors for joining two solid or stranded copper conductors end-to-end. The tin-plated copper barrel is sized to fit the wire range, and the color-coded vinyl insulation sleeve matches the AWG band so the right splice is obvious without checking the bag. Used for in-line wire repair, harness extensions, trailer wiring, low-voltage lighting, and panel rework where a permanent solder/heat-shrink joint is not required.

• Wire range: 22-18 AWG copper, solid or stranded
• Insulation color: Red (matches the standard AWG band)
• Construction: seamless tin-plated copper barrel inside a color-coded PVC insulation sleeve with a center stop so each conductor seats to the correct depth
• Insulation rated for general indoor wiring; not weather-resistant by itself
• Pack: 22 splices on a clamshell card

Installation Tip: Strip about 1/4" of insulation, fully insert the conductor into the splice barrel until it bottoms out against the center stop, then crimp with an insulated-terminal crimper (Gardner Bender GS-46, GS-388, or equivalent) using the jaw color-matched to the splice color. Crimp once near each end of the barrel, never in the middle. Tug-test both wires after crimping; a properly seated splice will not pull free. For two-conductor extensions, stagger the splice positions about 1" apart so the joint does not bulk up in one spot under loom or tape.

Selection Tip: Match the splice color to the smaller of the two wires you are joining when the gauges differ. Red covers most automotive accessory wiring (22-18 AWG dome lights, sensors, low-current door speakers); Blue handles 12 V trailer harnesses, automotive 12 V switched circuits, and most 120 V appliance flex (16-14 AWG); Yellow is for 12-10 AWG runs (battery accessory feeds, larger ground straps, residential 30 A appliance pigtails). For exposed marine, underhood, or any location where water can wick into the barrel and corrode the joint, step up to a heat-shrink butt splice (Gardner Bender 20-3140, Posi-Lock, 3M Scotchlok) instead.

Note: Vinyl-insulated butt splices are accepted for in-line repair and extension of low-voltage and branch-circuit conductors per common automotive and electrical practice, but local code typically requires splices on residential branch circuits to live inside an accessible junction box rather than buried in a wall or ceiling. For high-vibration mobile applications (boats, RVs, off-road) heat-shrink or solder-and-tape gives a more durable joint than a plain crimp.

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